Still Here

So, just as an update, my pinkie is still hurt but getting better. I've been going out to the 45 degree wall every monday to climb and campus. I've got a long way to go. Lots of fun though. I went out to Rogers Park the other day with Joe Meiners and a bunch af guys from school. Had fun but didn't really get on anything seriously. Joe and I got on a ten that was really hard. Oh well. El Vergador is going down next time.

Frisco

So the Frisco comp ended up going well despite the injured pinkie. I ended up getting first in mens open. The problems there were pretty good. My favorites were set by Carlo Traversi and Matt Dendy. Pretty cool I thought. I've come to the realization that our wall is not conducive to power endurance. Looks like I'll be spending more time at my friends 45 degree home wall.

BUmmer

So I competed in Chalk-Up, the local comp here Baylor University. The good news is that I won... the bad news is that in the process I pulled a pulley in my left pinkie finger. Luckily it's not too bad, but it is bad enough that I can't climb for a while. I'm just going to tape it up and climb next weekend but until then I'm off it.

This weekend was pretty fun. I had a mandatory camping trip for our backpacking class. We went to Dinosaur Valley State Park in Glen Rose. We left to go there a little early to check out big rocks park...Contrary to the name, the rocks aren't that big. I found one slabby V0 and that was it. Dinosaur Valley however has a lot more climbing possibilities but since it was a backpacking trip for school I didn't get to really scope anything. Looks cool though. Despite not climbing I had a lot of fun. The girls got attacked by a racoon. I slept in the "guys camp" so I got to hear the story the next morning. Our new backpacks worked out well and we had a good time.

Nolan River Again

Last time I went to Nolan River I didn't get to stay long. This time I went with Marty and a friend from baylor named Jake. This time I actually got on something besides a V2. I got on and onsighted three V8s. Pretty psyched so I got on Ryan Sewell's line, Insomnia 8a+. I got all the moves except the dyno and I'll be going back soon to work on it more. Here's a pic.

Check it out!

So tomorrow I am going to Big Rocks Park. Pretty excited because I don't think anyone has climbed there before. Should be cool.

Ok...

So the comp went way better than I thought. My friend Heather and I drove down and stayed at Heather's house. Then we went to the comp. There were kids there that were pulling some sick moves. I signed for men's open. It was a lot of fun and I actually won. I was deffinately not on my game though. I'll have to step it up for Frisco...here's some pics.

Well...

I am officially signed up for ABS. The first comp is in a week from today. Pretty nervous. I've done plenty of comps but it's been a few years now on the collegiate circuit and I know most of the people who are going to be there. I have no idea who will be in houston.

Bull Creek

I found out tonight that there was a bouldering place within 10 minutes of the REI in Austin. I was meeting some people there today and I decided to clim a little. Messing around became climbing and I got on some problems there. I flashed a few hard problems but I didn't know any of their names or ratings. I went back to REI and looked in Austin Rock and I actually Flashed a V9 named Viagra. I also Flashed a V6 called Xanax and some V4 Dyno problem. Pretty psyched. Here is me on the V6.

Random

I was watching Dosage III today at work and I discovered something kinda funny. I went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and forgot a crashpad so they let me borrow one. The pad Sharma was sitting infront of right after he sent king lion was the same pad. It had a hand drawn sun on it. Kinda cool I thought.

Dyno Comps are fun. I have a dyno set at the Rock and it's about even with the world record. Needless to say I haven't done it. One day though. I found this little snipit on my computer so I thought i'd share it.

So Channel Cat and Kung Fool are slain...for now, until the sit start. The great thing is that I got a picture of it. I'm also pretty sure that next time I go back to tonks there will be no trees left. They're clearing out all the trees on the other side above the left band. Kinda annoying.

Another day gone.

It's amazing how much working at a climbing wall interferes with climbing. I was going to go climbing this weekend, probably all weekend, and I have training. Granted it is AMGA climbing wall instructor certification but it is still taking up all my climbing time.

V12

So I am getting just a little further on the V12 in the Gym. Haven't stuck the crux but I've done a lot more than I expected. Pretty psyched.

Campusing

You will not believe how effective a strenuous campus workout can be until you push it as hard as you can. Last night i did and today I can't climb anything. I went into the rock and climbed for about 30 minutes and decided my time was better spent elsewhere...Like on the couch blogging. Sooooo Tiiiiiired. BTW climb on bar rocks.

Sad Day

So...Ham Creek Park is actually Hostility Boulders. Oh well. That's the bad news. The good news however is that the "FA" that I got out there, that i rated an 8 was rated that by the actual guys who got the FA. So that means my internal rating system isn't as skewed as i thought.




P.S. Here is a picture after the send.

Lead Climbing

Good News. I can still lead climb. I haven't really led in a long time. Yesterday I went into teh rock and Led a 12b first try clean. It felt good to be pumped again on rope without having to climb 20 routes. Over gripping can kill your forearms. (plus im a little rusty with my clipping.) Regardless it felt great.

Tonkawa

So...the trip was a success. I headed out to Tonks with Andrew Wooldridge and Landon McNeely. Andrew got a real fun V3+ and Flashed a V2+. Unfortunately Landon got close on both but didn't quite get either. I finally got on Le Ceil the V9. It is a great problem. Got it 4th go! Pretty Psyched. Amazingly I also got the first ascent of a project aptly named mono project. All in all a good evening.

Channel Cat

So I am successful in setting and sending channel cat low in the gym. Of course it can never be exactly like the real thing but i am confident that I have set a problem adequate enough to send my Tonkawa Nemesis.

Schools Out

So...this year round I have no class on tuesday or thursday needless to say I'm Psyched. Tonkawa Falls twice a week. Wait...why am I here I should be climbing. Later.