Today was, by far, the greatest day at Hueco ever. First off, I finally got up before the park was super hot, and went and climbed. The first problem I went to was Une Bleau de Dans un Hueco, V11. The problem was super short but really scrunchy. I didn't think it was going to go, but then I tried some silly beta that actually worked. I almost fell off the topout though. Then I headed to the Theatre of the Absurd.
I got on Theatre of the Absurd, but got all the moves and fell on the last move three times, so I quit because the last time I was there, I almost sent Martini Roof, V10, so I left and went to martini cave. I didn't spend much time there because the problem went on the first go! I laid out my three pads, one at the start, one kind of in the middle and one at the end.
From Martini, I headed up the chains and looked at Loaded With Power, a V10 that I would much rather attempt with at least one spotter. I continued up the chains to look at Dark Age and Barfoot, but decided they were too much for now and rounded the corner to Dope Fiend Low, V9. I wasn't sure how to do it, but the hold definitely looked good enough to hang on so I went left hand back and figure-4'd up to the start of the V3. I thought I was going to fall off the V3 because I have actually never done it and didn't even look at the topout but everything ended up going well. Right next door to that, I got on Fern Roof, V10. It actually went pretty fast, about 7 or so goes. I actually liked it, but I would have liked to have had a spotter for the swing.
From there, I headed down the hill to the Terminator wall. The first climb I got on was Mcbain, a V8 that my friend Ben recommended to me last time. I flashed it, but barely. It was over pretty quickly as it finishes on a jug, so I started working on the V10 to the right, Predator. This was honestly the hardest feeling problem of the day. It was really crimpy and powerful. I worked on it for about an hour. It was not the prettiest send, but it went.
One climb I wanted to look at was Anal Intruder #10, V11 so on my way out, I went by the New Meadow. After working Predator, I could barely even hold the undercling so I decided it was about time to go. It was a great day and I am excited to have done such great climbs today.
No comments:
Post a Comment