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Thursday, June 6, 2013

V58

Today was, by far, the greatest day at Hueco ever.  First off, I finally got up before the park was super hot, and went and climbed.  The first problem I went to was Une Bleau de Dans un Hueco, V11.  The problem was super short but really scrunchy.  I didn't think it was going to go, but then I tried some silly beta that actually worked.  I almost fell off the topout though.  Then I headed to the Theatre of the Absurd.


I got on Theatre of the Absurd, but got all the moves and fell on the last move three times, so I quit because the last time I was there, I almost sent Martini Roof, V10, so I left and went to martini cave.  I didn't spend much time there because the problem went on the first go!  I laid out my three pads, one at the start, one kind of in the middle and one at the end.


From Martini, I headed up the chains and looked at Loaded With Power, a V10 that I would much rather attempt with at least one spotter.  I continued up the chains to look at Dark Age and Barfoot, but decided they were too much for now and rounded the corner to Dope Fiend Low, V9.  I wasn't sure how to do it, but the hold definitely looked good enough to hang on so I went left hand back and figure-4'd up to the start of the V3.  I thought I was going to fall off the V3 because I have actually never done it and didn't even look at the topout but everything ended up going well.  Right next door to that, I got on Fern Roof, V10.  It actually went pretty fast, about 7 or so goes.  I actually liked it, but I would have liked to have had a spotter for the swing.


From there, I headed down the hill to the Terminator wall.  The first climb I got on was Mcbain, a V8 that my friend Ben recommended to me last time.  I flashed it, but barely.  It was over pretty quickly as it finishes on a jug, so I started working on the V10 to the right, Predator.  This was honestly the hardest feeling problem of the day.  It was really crimpy and powerful.  I worked on it for about an hour.  It was not the prettiest send, but it went.


One climb I wanted to look at was Anal Intruder #10, V11 so on my way out, I went by the New Meadow.  After working Predator, I could barely even hold the undercling so I decided it was about time to go.  It was a great day and I am excited to have done such great climbs today.

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