Even robots wear 'em!

This could be affirmative proof that 5.10 makes the best shoes out there.  This is a short video of the Atlas robot making its ascent up some stairs.  They wanted to make the robot have the best traction possible, so of course they went with 5.10s.  They appear to be spires, or similar. 

Just a random fact of the day!

Trying to train.

So I put up my hangboards and rings and powerballs, along with a short board to bolt holds to, in my basement.  It's nice that it has natural rock walls for feet to practice moves and the roof should allow for a good bit of climbing area.  Just have to get some plywood up and see what goes down.

Gate Fails

So, I don't normally post non-climbing things on my blog but this is really interesting.  There is a gate at some location in Europe, judging by the longer license plates and Lithuanian delivery company that people continually fail at.  Hit in the head, hitting their car, or just running straight into it.  I don't have a clue where it is, but it seems that the security people get a kick out of people running into this gate.  If you have seen videos of this gate or know where it might be, comment below.

Links
1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAIp5tPFcbQ
2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFoq8-Xszjs
3) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-8H6dkPTfc
4) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMBkxZ2ooQg

Gettin' Better

Slowly my finger is getting better.  Still a little sore, but no longer hurting when I am doing mundane tasks, so that is a plus.  Soon I'll get out and actually climb and see how it goes.  I did some door frame pullups on some 1/2 inch crimps and it seems like it's feeling much better than a few months ago.  Hopefully I'll be as good as new.  Just an update for now, but I'll let you all know how it goes when I hit the rock.

Boston Rock Gym - Woburn, MA

So this post is a little late but good nonetheless.  While my dad was still here, we went to Woburn and went to the Boston Rock Gym there.

Not knowing what to expect, I didn't think anything of it when we pulled up to your typical warehouse looking facade.  We went in and I was wonderfully surprised.

The first room we went in had maybe 30 V7 to V8s and was set to all styles of climbing.  There were overhangs, slopers, crimps, juggy problems and really tensiony Choir Boys type problems.

Of course, I was limited by my finger injury, but I got on some V9s regardless and they felt really true to grade.  They climbed well and were really fun.  One thing of note, was that the gym was actually kept at a pretty reasonable temperature.  Most gyms I visit are far too hot for the level of humidity present.

Of most notability was the training setup at the gym.  Among many other things they had, like ropes, rings and those gymnastics curtains, was a treadwall.  It was much more challenging than I remember it, but my shoes were not really conducive to some of the smaller holds.  Lots of fun though.  They also had your typical campus and hang boards on the adjacent wall.

Of there main rooms, there is one with a full crack spectrum.   Here I am attempting to knee jam, hand jam, and fingerlock all at once.

Thanks to my dad for these pictures.

Also, as an interesting fact, I think my dad should have been a climber.  He actually beat me at the grip tug of war game at the end of the session.

Size of Facility:          Great

Route Asthetics:         Good

Route Climbability:    Good

Route Maitenence:    Great

Training Equipment: Great

Staff Friendliness:       Great

Staff Knowledge:      Fair

Grade Trueness  V1-V4: - True  V5-V7: True V8+: True

Dr. Pepper fixed gear

For those of you that knew me in college, you remember that I was really into bikes.  However, it was all really put on hold when I went into the Army and then lived in El Paso.  In El Paso, everything is so spread apart and there aren't that many places that are nice to ride your bike.  Here in Boston, however, I am riding at least 10 miles a day and really happy about it.  As an ode to my reignited passion, I have some pictures of my bike to put up.

 

I am so glad to be riding again.

 

For those of you wondering, the frame is a 1972 Astra Tour de France that I painted myself.  There aren't really any "sick" components on the bike, rather, just that is is simple and classic.  Just like the taste of Dr. Pepper...haha.  I crack myself up.

Fort Bliss Climbing Wall - El Paso, TX

So, I figured since I left El Paso, it was about time to review what was once my home wall.  The Fort Bliss Climbing wall in the Robert Loeza Soldier Activity Center is the only gym in El Paso.  The wall was only built in August 2012 so it is very new.  Similarly, the staff is also very new and very few (at this point none) of them have any setting experience.  Sometimes that turns out very awkward and silly, but other times it ends up with some really cool moves.

The gym wall is only about 25 feet high, which makes it a little difficult to really train any amount of endurance but we work with what we have.  One of the best parts of the wall, though is the people.  Strangely enough, there is only a limited amount of soldiers.  The wall is rich in locals from the El Paso area, very hyped on climbing.  Up until June 15th, the gym was free to all patron over 18 (the facility does not allow children) but now the fee is 5 dollars a day and something around 150 for 6 months.  The facility is a nice, clean place and the atmosphere is pretty good.  I would recommend stopping by this place if you're in town just to check it out.

Size of Facility:          Poor

Route Asthetics:         Good

Route Climbability:    Good

Route Maitenence:    Good

Training Equipment:  Poor

Staff Friendliness:       Great

Staff Knowledge:       Fair

Grade Trueness  V1-V4: - 0-1  V5-V7: True V8+: True

 

Dyno Rock - Arlington, TX

The Gym closest to Fort Worth is Arlington's own DynoRock Climbing Gym.  It is near the stadium and is pretty easily found.  The cost for a day bouldering pass with gear was 12 dollars and if you were to get on rope I think it was 16 bucks.  One unfortunate thing, however, is that on my wonderful send day at Hueco, I managed to strain my A2 pulley in my right hand pretty badly.  I can only put maybe 10% weight on it, so I may have some real issues for a while.  However, I will give you my review on the gym.

The Gym itself has been open for a long time.  Ever since I can remember, it has been there.  Therefore, it does show a little bit.  The gym uses shredded tire rubber, which some may not be fond of.  I typically don't mind it except that changing shoes in it is miserable.  Other than that, it's fine.  One thing I thought was odd was the lack of a water fountain.  I didn't bring a water bottle with me, so it would have been nice to get a drink.  Another thing that was odd was that the difficulty of the problems was set to about V7 and there were only two of them.  However, unlike Madison's gym, these were more like actual V7s.  There was one V8 and V9 but my finger prevented me from really trying them.  Lastly, I asked to go to their "members only" section.  In my head I thought it was going to be a place where their "sick projects" would be.  In reality, it was a bunch of V2s and V3s.  No problem with that, but it was a lot of space with not a whole lot of diversity.

Size of Facility:         Fair

Route Asthetics:         Good

Route Climbability:    Good

Route Maitenence:    Good

Training Equipment:  Fair

Staff Friendliness:       Good

Staff Knowledge:       Fair

Grade Trueness  V1-V4: True- -1  V5-V7: True V8+: Seemed True

V58

Today was, by far, the greatest day at Hueco ever.  First off, I finally got up before the park was super hot, and went and climbed.  The first problem I went to was Une Bleau de Dans un Hueco, V11.  The problem was super short but really scrunchy.  I didn't think it was going to go, but then I tried some silly beta that actually worked.  I almost fell off the topout though.  Then I headed to the Theatre of the Absurd.

I got on Theatre of the Absurd, but got all the moves and fell on the last move three times, so I quit because the last time I was there, I almost sent Martini Roof, V10, so I left and went to martini cave.  I didn't spend much time there because the problem went on the first go!  I laid out my three pads, one at the start, one kind of in the middle and one at the end.

From Martini, I headed up the chains and looked at Loaded With Power, a V10 that I would much rather attempt with at least one spotter.  I continued up the chains to look at Dark Age and Barfoot, but decided they were too much for now and rounded the corner to Dope Fiend Low, V9.  I wasn't sure how to do it, but the hold definitely looked good enough to hang on so I went left hand back and figure-4'd up to the start of the V3.  I thought I was going to fall off the V3 because I have actually never done it and didn't even look at the topout but everything ended up going well.  Right next door to that, I got on Fern Roof, V10.  It actually went pretty fast, about 7 or so goes.  I actually liked it, but I would have liked to have had a spotter for the swing.

From there, I headed down the hill to the Terminator wall.  The first climb I got on was Mcbain, a V8 that my friend Ben recommended to me last time.  I flashed it, but barely.  It was over pretty quickly as it finishes on a jug, so I started working on the V10 to the right, Predator.  This was honestly the hardest feeling problem of the day.  It was really crimpy and powerful.  I worked on it for about an hour.  It was not the prettiest send, but it went.

One climb I wanted to look at was Anal Intruder #10, V11 so on my way out, I went by the New Meadow.  After working Predator, I could barely even hold the undercling so I decided it was about time to go.  It was a great day and I am excited to have done such great climbs today.

Two V11s! (or an 11 and 12)

Yesterday I went out to Hueco with some guys I met at the climbing comp last week.  We went first to the New Meadow where the guys worked on a problem around the corner and I worked on Schwerer Gustov.  After about 5 tries I sent it.  It's a fun problem.  Then, we went to the Army of Darkness boulder and Connor and I climbed this highball problem that was really crimpy.  I liked it a lot but I am still not a huge fan of highballs.  I am not sure what the climb was, since it is just called project in the guidebook but it was really neat.  From there we went to the Babyface Boulders and Connor got PFOS.  It was a good send and I really enjoyed our trip out there, especially ending it with El Pasito.

Today I was able to make it out to Hueco in the morning.  I went first to Diaphanous Sea and got to work.  It was a struggle only because my skin was killing me.  The day before yesterday I went swimming and lost all of the callouses I had built up on my fingers from Boston.  I was ready to give up because everything felt so sharp but instead I threw my chacos to the top of the climb and told myself I wouldn't cheat to get up to them.  On the send, my fingers actually felt much better than the attempts that I bailed off.  I guess that I have needed to just climb through the pain for some time now, rather than let myself think I need to build up callouses.  Anyway, it was a great day.

In sadder news, however, Sport Climbing did not make it into the 2020 Olympics.  It's unfortunate, but it is the harsh reality of the ambiguous nature of sport climbing.  Try as they might to inform people, I still have people ask straight off whether comps are based on time.  Hopefully 2024!